Hotel Strasbourg France

Strasbourg, France: a cultural guide

At that age, a year studying in this spectacularly beautiful city on the banks of the Rhine was, I felt, best spent in bars. Fortunately, this being Alsace, where everything is imbued with the character of its unusual history, those Winstubs, as they are called, were charming and unique, with the beer locally brewed. But it explains why on my return, 20 years later, I felt like I was discovering it afresh.

The cathedral in its cobbled square, filled with buskers, street artists and quirky shops, was followed by La Petite France – an area named by the Germans during the years when they were in control. Like much of Strasbourg it is a lovely maze of streets overhung by crooked, brightly coloured, half-timbered houses, but here the charm is multiplied by its position among canals, locks and waterfalls.

When Strasbourg returned to French rule in 1918 the epithet “German quarter” was given to the streets and squares of elegant and imposing 19th-century mansions built by Emperor Willem II. This area came as more of a surprise; I’d forgotten its varied and stunning architecture. I’d also forgotten just how many superb churches and museums there are.

Not many would have piqued my interest back then, but one that might have done, had it been around, is the recently opened Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art. This marvel shows, I like to think, that both Strasbourg and I have matured and can celebrate the new without forgetting our roots.

Talking of moving on, another new museum, the Alsace Moselle Memorial, pays testament to the years during the Second World War when the region was annexed by the Nazis. The memorial is situated an hour out of town, a perfect excuse to experience the gorgeous countryside in the foothills of the Vosges mountains.

I wish I’d had more curiosity as a teenager and made the most of Strasbourg and Alsace. Returning for just five days was not nearly enough. Having said that, I loved every minute of both trips, and my only regret is having waited 20 years to go back.

GETTING THERE

Rail Europe (0844 848 4070; www.raileurope.co.uk ) offers return train fares from London from £99; Air France (0871 663 3777; www.airfrance.co.uk ) offers returns from £305.

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